After my solo trek to “Sandakphu & Phalut” last winter, I got a great opportunity to trek in Sikkim during post monsoon. Trekking the word itself makes my inner self activated. Don’t know how the happiness and enthusiasm I feel while planning. It’s the 6th time that I feel happy and energetic to say that I am joining the HT team 🙂 .

This is my second blog attempt after my “My Solo Phalut diary“. This time with a fixed departure group of 14 members from different states. It was a great moment to join the hands again with HT, time tested, my 6th trek with HT. Hats off to their understanding of the trail.

A good phrase comes to my mind – “Once a year  go someplace you’ve never been before.” – Dalai Lama “

This time GOECHALA TREK – A Trek That Takes You Close To The World’s Third Highest Mountain!! Goechala is a rare “high” altitude trail among the treks in Sikkim that takes you close to the world’s 3rd highest mountain.  It is famous for its grand view of mount Kanchenjunga and other high Himalayan peaks.

Day 0, 27 Sep 2019: Chennai to Bagdogra

My journey for the trek starts from Chennai (my home town). Flight was scheduled on 28th Sep at 05:00 AM up to Bagdogra. I started my journey on 27th Sep night itself around 11:30 PM and reached the airport around 01:30 AM by bus via Tambaram. It was economic and I don’t like last minute rush. Got the boarding pass and waited for the boarding flight to Bagdogra (nearest city is Siliguri – West Bengal). During the security check in, an unforgettable moment happened. Suddenly, suspicious they asked me to remove the shoe, after checking they smiled and replied “All the best “. Without any delay I got into my preferred window seat.

Day 1, 28 Sep 2019: Bagdogra to Yuksom

It was raining heavily when I landed at 07:45.  Bagdogra airport was pretty small and didn’t look commercial. Out of the group of 14 trekkers, I was waiting for  3 more trekkers who will also reach Bagdogra in the morning and then we will pick  2 more from Siliguri to complete one car. 6 trekkers shared another cab to Yuksom from NJP, while remaining 2 reached on their own.

Met the 3 trekkers one by one, of whom I first met Punit around 08:30, followed by Harsh around 09:00 and Umang around 10:30 AM. In the meantime we all introduced ourselves. Once all united, we called the cab driver arranged by HT and started our journey in the chill climate. Cab started around 11 AM towards Siliguri to pick 2 more people. Due to heavy rain traffic was slow moving. Packed luggage on the top of the cab for the relaxed travel.Around 12:10 , started from Siliguri towards Yuksom which is a 7/8 hours journey and around 160 KM. The way was full of ghat. Six members were Harsh, Umang, Vinay, Vivek, Punit and Myself. All had a good interaction and all felt hungry so stopped our cab and had lunch around 13:30. Had roti and sabji and left towards Yuksom. On the way we saw the beautiful Jorethang town where we saw well organised, clean streets and roads. There was  the beautiful hanging bridge where we saw two rivers joining together.

While going , we saw one section of a huge landslide and bridge under construction. Due to mud, our cab went slowly and successfully crossed. We expected to reach Yuksom around 17:00, but due to traffic and road congestion, we have to take the short cut roads to reach Yuksom. Around 17:00 it  was pitch dark due to early sunset and it was a totally remote area.

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A stretch between Malli to Jorethang

It was around 15 KM to reach Yuksom, when a tyre punctured, although fixed by the driver and we started soon after. Indeed a relaxing feel and he seemed well acquainted with the road conditions. We reached the base camp around 19:00. By the time, the first cab also reached. We settled our cab fare of 1000 INR each.

We all stayed in a small lodge, neat and clean with a hot shower. Swiftly got away with luggage and refreshed ourselves. Room has 4 beds and we (Umang, Punit, Harsh and I) stayed in it. All refreshed quickly and kept ready all declaration documents , address proof and photo copy that are to be handed over to HT. All were ready for dinner and went to the hotel. Surprised to see Rhik – HT coordinator, whom I met before in another trek. He has good experience of Goecha La trek. On the behalf of HT, he gave the introduction about the trek lead and other staff people of HT. All gathered for the dinner and introduced one by one.

We all discussed the trek plan and handed over all the documents to the HT team. Everyone was tired so got signed off for the day and went to the room around 10 PM. Next 10 days it’s going to be fun and challenging for which all were eagerly waiting for.

Day 2, 29 Sep 2019: Yuksom to Sachen

The dream trek begins today. 🙂 The climate was chilly as it was rainy. Woke up around 05:00 and took a bath. Bathed well as the next bath will be after 10 days  (i.e after trek finishes). All got refreshed and had tea at the restaurant. Back to the hotel, packed all our rucksacks and gathered in the lobby. It was breakfast time. I ordered bread omelette, Kellogg’s and black tea. All did according to their wish. By the time Rhik of HT came for the send-off and input some tips regarding the excursion.

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Team with rain gears at Yuksom

Started our journey towards our first camp site Sachen 08 KM altitude of 7200 feet while one trek leader monitoring the team at front and another at the end. On the way we crossed Kanchenjunga National Park entry check post. At the entrance, the interpretation centre was there where we got the details about the Kanchenjunga national park like birds, animals , mountain peaks, and many more. Nearby was the cage for capturing leopards.

With the heavy back bag around 13 to 15 KG , our journey started. It was thick forest with greenery surrounded by streams and narrow paths. Few paths were ascent and few descents. Trek was very well organised that at the both ends trek leads are following for the safety of the trekkers. Reported 1st suspension bridge and also big arch of Kanchenjunga national park which seems officially welcoming the trekkers. The trail was quite rocky and steep. Encountered the first yak on the way. yak and mules were used for the logistic purpose. Yak is huge and calm. I enquired about how much weight it can carry on their back. They said around 50 KG. (shocked!)

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The “second” bridge to Sachen

Walking around 2 1/2 hours saw another suspension bridge, and captured the empty bridge after all the trekkers passed by. Sweeper (the guide at end point) Agam waited for me till I finished taking snaps. It was the wooden bridge where a landslide happened. Saw good water fall and had water as well. After the walk of 4-5 hours saw the welcome board of Sachen(2189 meter). Reached Sachen around 14:00. We already packed our lunch from Yuksom itself in the lunch box. All were damn hungry so had stomachs full of lunch and waited for the logistics. We all waited in the small hut for an hour till they pitched the tent.

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Reaching misty Sachen

We settled ourselves in 5 tents, as 3 trekkers in 4 tents and remaining 2 in another. I was totally wet due to the rain , so I dried myself outside the tent. Umang , myself and PK (scientist) grouped and stayed in one tent. Took a nap for some time. Around 05:30 PM it was quite dark. The campsite was too muddy due to rain. So all switched on the light and was waiting for the dinner call. There was also another group of trekkers who pitched their tent next to us. All have to go to the same hut for dinner. All nicely had the dinner and myself filled my water bottle with hot water and kept in the sleeping bags to keep it warm (don’t forget to close the lid properly) . Had some discussion about the next day’s challenge (Tshoka). Around 08:30 PM , we all came back to the tent. It was quite spacious for 3 people. All wished “good night” and happily went inside the “sleeping bag” for keeping ourselves warm.

Day 3, 30 Sep 2019: Sachen to Tsokha

Today morning started with the bed tea-“BLACK TEA”. Around 06:30 am  we woke up and got the call from the kitchen team that was to leave Sachen by 09:00 AM. Sikkim is known to be a clean  city wherever we go, we get rest room, no problem at high altitude too. Nicely had our breakfast -bread toast , jam and omelette and for lunch we are going to get a hot lunch at campsite.

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All set to Tsokha

Tsokha was around 06 km from Sachen . The trail was up and down with patches started with a slow move one by one after the healthy breakfast. “Bakhim” is the place where all trekkers take rest. It is a pit stop /resting point. Valley view was awesome from Bakhim. The way towards Tsokha was dense forest and luckily no rain .On the way we saw 60 11th grade students from Bangalore for Goechala trek. On enquiring we came to  know that “it is the part of academic” , surprised and happy to see the school student for the adventurous activity. They are about to complete their trek. During their time , the weather was not clear to see the view point.One student happily said that ” you people are lucky” as the climate was favourable. Signing off from the student , we started to walk ahead.

On the way , we encountered the suspension bridge connecting one hill to another hill and the river flowing under it (River Prek Chu) and the colourful prayer flag were tagged on the bridge which was too beautiful to see. I took the empty hanging bridge with the colourful  flags flying and started our walk towards Bakhim, huge fog was crossing due to which there was “0” visibility.

Later it was good. Reached Bakhim around 12:30-13:00 where a small hut was there. Some trekkers reached early and ordered black tea and some reached later. After a small break , we started our walk towards Tsokha. It was not that much of a big day. Trail was also decent.

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Cloudy Bakhim

Finally reached Tsokha around 14:30. At all campsites we have  trekkers hut which costs around 100 INR per bed. Reached the hut and waited for logistics to pitch the tent. Had our lunch poori ,raita and subji with discussion about today’s trail  among the trekkers.

Later the tent was pitched and all took rest for 01 hour. After that there was the small plan to visit a small monastery which was 600 meter away from the camp site. All started our walk towards the monastery which was a bit uphill. It was post monsoon period then also unfortunately rain came. Due to which the sky was not clear. Hopefully for another couple of days I will get a good clear view. From the monastery  top we can see the full view of Tsokha.

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Outside the monastery

Due to some ongoing work, the monastery was closed. Around 17:30 it became pitch dark , birds were flying beautifully going back to nest. Enjoying nature , we started our walk towards the tent. Reached tent and had black tea nicely. Had some chit chat about the next day with trek lead and fellow trekkers. Around 19:15 , I got a call for dinner. Had dinner nicely. hoping for the good weather the next day all signed off for the day. I had cards with me, so I played cards in the tent for a while and then all slept.

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Tsokha camping ground

Day 4, 01 Oct 2019: Tsokha to Dzongri

It was quite a challenging trek from Tsokha to Dzongri as the altitude gain to Dzongri is double as compared to other places covered so far. The trail was primarily an ascent with one descent. Next day would be the acclimatisation day at Dzongri to get adopted to the climate and altitude. Early morning , clear sky , the sun rays falling on the mountain. We can see Mount Pandim but suddenly the clouds are covered so we can’t see the full view. But on the way we can see the mountain range in very close view if the weather is clear.

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Good morning Tsokha

All the trekkers got refreshed around 07:30-08:00 with their rack sack for the adventurous day as the distance and the altitude both high when compared to previous days.Today packed lunch due to a long day. There was no rain, but it was cloudy. Started to walk around 09:00 and the trail towards  Dzongri was awesome. There is one pit top named  Phedang where all have the plan to have lunch. Starting our walk towards Phedang , the way was a rain forest with wooden steps surrounded by big trees so we had to be careful while walking. There were other trekkers groups too on the way to Dzongri and had some chit chat too.

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Trail inside Rhododendron forest

It was around 1:30 PM when we reached Phedang. Some reached early and some later. All had their lunch nicely at Phedang but i didn’t. Had my dry fruits and thought to have my lunch at Dzongri.

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Phedang with a kitchen hut where we took our lunch

Rain started and it was a bit slippery too. Finally reached Dzongri around 15:30. Dzongri also has a hut facility. If we go solo we can stay over there. All became tired due to long day walks. My shoulder was also painful  due to a 12 KG rucksack. Tent was already pitched. so kept all the belongings and had my favourite black tea for refreshment. After some time I had my packed lunch of fried rice.

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Dzongri campsite

All were happy with the trail. After some refreshment there was a plan to visit the hut where the small shop was there. After reaching the hut , we had momos nicely and almost most of the trekkers were there and we had a chit chat with local people. The hut is quite warm and everyone one not willing to move out due to the cosiness.

Next day is the acclimatisation day in Dzongri. We have enough time to settle up so that no altitude sickness will impact us. Next day’s plan will be going to Dzongri top and back and resting day. Around 19:30 , I got a call for dinner. Had dinner nicely. Hoping for the good weather tomorrow signed off for the day. Back to the tent and time to take a nap.

Day 5, 02 Oct 2019: At Dzongri, rest and acclimatisation

All were excited that today is the rest and acclimatisation day in Dzongri because of high altitude. I woke up around 03:30 to view the beauty of the sunrise. Have to walk 45 min up hills to reach Dzongri top.

From the Dzongri top we can see Kanchenjunga, Pandim & other mountain ranges. We all started climbing slowly as in the mountain the sunrise was a bit early. All reached the Dzongri top around 05:30. We are too lucky that the sky was very clear.

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Clear sunrise time view of big mountains
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Prayer flags at top

The golden first sun rays fall on the Mt. Kanchenjunga, Pandim & other mountain ranges. It was glittering like gold. Took the snap and also group snap at Dzongri top. Enjoying the blissful morning with the cup of black tea. Got the 360 view of the mountain. The clouds were floating on the opposite sides of the mountain. We are too lucky to see the sunrise as the weather was not good a few days back. All the trekkers roamed here and there and spent the good time while taking the snaps. Started walking towards the camp site. Reached around 09:00.

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Beautiful valley opened while descending from top

As today was the resting day , all came back to the tent and took a rest for some time. Afternoon it was pretty rainy and I had a hot lunch enjoying the rain. Had a short break post lunch and there was the plan to see the other places of Dzongri by having a walk around 04-05 KM.

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Some tents pitched beside Dzongri hut

Started our walk and warmed up ,on the way we saw a cattle shed where yak and mule will stay and the food will be stored for them. Sherpa will take care of them and they will stay with them. Spend some time viewing the scenery. As the rain was drizzling, we started our journey back to base camp. On the way I had momos and black tea in the small shop and got warm up too. Back to the tent and got refreshed ourselves.

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Wild flowers on the meadows

Around 19:15, we got the dinner call. All had dinner and some discussion among the trekkers and later signed off from the dining place and back to the tent. i was almost in half sleep around 22:30 , by mistake somehow i lost all my memories in the phone. No auto back-up so totally upset that i lost all my memories in the trek which i took till now. i don’t want to restart the mobile before that i need to check with the service centre once back to base Chennai. Thank god i have another mobile so that i can continue for the upcoming days. Sleepless night due to that factory reset.

Day 6, 03 Oct 2019: Dzongri to Lamuney

Morning weather was pleasant and sunny. Today’s trek is from Dzongri to Lamuney via Kochurang & Thansing. Today’s plan is to reach base camp from where we are going to walk to Goecha La view-point 1.

All the trekkers got ready around 09:00 with good stamina due to the acclimatisation. We started our walk towards our destination. During the trail we are able to see the lost view of Mt Pandim and other mountain peaks. It was a bit uphill so took many breaks in between.  The view which we got to see at Dzongri top, we can see the same here too. Took the snaps of nature and started walking. On the top of the mountain we could see the trail to Kochurang & Lamuney. There was the hut in Kochurang where trekkers used to stay. If we go solo we can stay over there and proceed for the journey.

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Walk begins
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Walking on Dzongri meadows

After sometime weather became usual cloudy and foggy. Bit drizzle too, but manageable. Till Kochurang it was downhill and very steep too. Have to be careful. Too muddy too for keeping the steps. We were able to see the campsite of Lamuney which is one of the viewpoints while on the way to Kochurang. Thansing is the point where all the trekkers are going to lunch. Reached Kochurang after the walk of around 2 1/2 hours. Some trekkers reached early and some were on the way. All had a short break and had my dry fruits and walked Nearby Kochurang hut where Prek Chu river passes through nearby. Again started to walk after rest.

Ahead there were two small wooden bridges over which thick fog was crossing and beautiful scenery to view. One of the wooden bridges was too weak as people used it more frequently. After crossing the bridge again it was a bit uphill, bit slippery, rocky and muddy too. All were keeping their steps very carefully and very awesome as the excursion was alongside Prek Chu.

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A bridge @ Kokchurang

Reached Thansing and had our lunch. There was the trekkers hut too if we want we can stay and take rest. We had a hot lunch of noodles soup and favourite khichdi with papad combination which was too good and yummy. All had the refreshment drink black tea after lunch to make ourselves warm. Unfortunately one of our tent mates PK was not able to come with us. As his shoe got worn out at Dzongri itself. He bought the new one too but as it was a new shoe bite so not able to walk properly. So he decided to stay at Kochurang itself. On the way we met one solo trekker and we became a group of 14 trekkers again.

Lamuney trail was not challenging. There were big meadows but I wasn’t able to see due to the clouds. It was the final camp site to reach our destination Goecha La viewpoint. Lamuney was very calm and there was no trekkers hut, only a kitchen hut was there. All the trekkers reached the camp site around 16:00 and all were damn tired as it was the long day almost 14 KM walk. Went inside the tent, got refreshed and waited for the dinner call. Next day morning have to start early so had dinner and everyone planned to nap early without any further discussion.

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Lamuney filled with cloud and mist

The main target was to view the view point 1 sunrise. All were discussing the Goechala viewpoint during dinner time. There are three viewpoints 1,2 & 3. Due to some restriction, view point 2&3 was closed. Snow leopard was roaming and risky too due to moraine trail and landslide also it was banned recently. Can get the approval of view point 2 at least but not due to restriction. So a bit disappointed. Till 2016 VP 3 was allowed by that time it was not that much commercial but nowadays it was too commercial and that’s was the reason stopped. View point 2&3 were around only 04 KM by max from VP-1. Below VP-1, there was Samiti lake which was too beautiful , which we are going to see tomorrow.

Day 7, 04 Oct 2019: Lamuney to Goechala VP 1 and back to Kokchurang

It was the long day. The journey of the trek was to view the VP-1 then to Lamuney and then finally to Kochurang. The main target was to view the sunrise at Goecha La. The weather was also favourable to us. All were ready by 03:30 Started to climb around 04:00. Since it was pitch dark and very chill everybody switched on the head torch to got to the VP-1. It was bit uphill and we saw Samiti Lake on the way. Due to early morning we can’t see the full lake. Slowly the sky was getting brighter and saw big mountain fully covered with fog.

Reached Goecha la view point-1 around 06:00 and it was cloudy. We are bit unsatisfied that we are not able to see the clear sunrise due to cloudy weather. We are waiting for the clear view. After sometime the weather became clear and the sun-ray fall on the mt Kanchenjunga. Blue sky and white snow which seems as the gold was glittering. Mt Pandim & Tenchenkhang can also be seen from that point. Got 360 view all surrounded by the mountain. All were too  happy that finally our trek satisfied for which we were waiting for. As there was the restriction for VP-2 & VP-3 spent time in VP-1 and took the beautiful snaps. After sometimes all started to descend towards  Lamuney.

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From Viewpoint 1
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And the almighty Kanchenjunga

The view of the Samiti lake from top with blue and light green was amazing. While descending trek lead Kiran said blue sheep,blue sheep and we are lucky to come across. All the eyes toward them. Bunch of sheep were climbing towards mountain. Luckily took the snap by zooming it. Around 09:30 we all returned to the campsite of Lamuney.

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Samity lake

Took rest for sometime. Since its going to be long day, so finished our breakfast. All are busy with packing and removing the tent. After sometimes directly had our lunch and started descending. While coming we talked about the two bridge out of which one was weak. The Weak bridge got broken touching the water flowing under it. All were thinking and bit afraid that how to cross the river.

Trek lead checking out the option how to cross either we have to find new way or else crossing via broken bridge. The River Prek Chu in full speed crossing but we took the brave decision to cross the river. First Trek lead did the trail to make sure broken bridge stable or not and later asked us to cross one at a time. Myself crossed 1st by holding the hand of Kiran-trek lead and successfully crossed. Thank god(Thinking in mind). Similarly one by one crossed with the help of holding hands. There was another batch at Kochurang. Half of the logistics were crossed and half of there was at another side. Our batch HT crew somehow manually  crossed all the logistics safely. Our team mate PK was eagerly waiting for our return. We are very happy to see him back again. Shared the experience which we had beyond that point which he missed due to his shoe bite. Now he is all-rite.

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Negotiating the broken bridge

Our tent pitched near by River Prek Chu and again we three stayed in the tent. Got refreshed and waiting for the dinner. Had our dinner at the trekkers hut. All were fully satisfied that it was the worth day of the trek which all were looking for lucky to see everything clearly from VP-1. Happily returned to the tent. As it was long day ,all were bit tired. So went for the sleep by waving good night.

Day 8, 05 Oct 2019: Kokchurang to Tsokha

The target for which the trek was organised has been achieved.Everybody’s dream fulfilled. Now walk toward downhill. It seemed that the trek was going to end in a couple of days.Tent was pitched exactly to the river-Prek Chu.

When we came out of the tent we were able to see the clear view of the mt. Pandim with the snow peaked mountain. Had our breakfast of Kellogg’s , phulka roti and subji (Matar & chana). Enjoyed the full breakfast. Today also it was a packed lunch(pasta). Everybody packed the rucksack and ready to leave.

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Kokchurang

The uphill route and the downhill route were a bit different. While going uphill the trail followed was Tsokha to Dzongri (via Phedang) & Dzongri to Lamuney (via Kochurang). While the downhill trail followed by Lamuney to Kochurang (via Phedang) will be the same but to reach Tsokha from Kochurang (via Phedang) instead of via Dzongri we opt for the other route. The downhill was muddy and slippery too , but manageable so all enjoyed the climate and started to descend. The climate was moody but not that chillness as expected so wore only one layer of dress. Reached Phedang where everybody has the plan for lunch. We saw the small hut for trekkers resting point. All the trekkers  reached the hut one by one and had lunch nicely, after a litter break everybody started moving. The trail between Phedang and Tsokha was full of fog. It was calm all the way. We all reached Tsokha finally around 16:15. All were fully satisfied with the day. Remaining day was the rest day. Again the same tent mates myself , Umang and PK stayed together.Refreshed ourselves and were waiting for the dinner.

After the dinner there was the plan for the success party. As the next batch is going to come the HT crew members will stop at Sachen itself the next day. Celebrating the day end by cutting the cake for the HT crew members. Good dedication by guide and the supporting staff. Discussed about the pros and cons of the trek done so far. HT provided the complementary certificate for successfully attempting the Goecha la to all the trekkers. Talked about the upcoming plans too. All were too happy and satisfied with the excursion so far.

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Some creativity with salad
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Parting gift by HT staff

Back to the tent and signed off for the day. The next day would be the last day of the trek. From Tsokha to Yuksom via Sachen.

Day 9, 06 Oct 2019: Tsokha to Yuksom

The weather was pretty sunny and was very clear. All were relaxed as there was no rush to leave early on that day. All packed the rucksack and gathered for breakfast. It was Kellogg’s and bread omelette. Had nicely and started to move around 08:30. All packed the lunch veg sandwich in the limited quantity.After breakfast all gathered at the same time and started moving towards Sachen. Plan to reach Yuksom in the evening. The trail was a bit up and down with a couple of bridges on the way. The hanging bridge which we crossed while coming , the same bridge going to cross. On the way we saw many batches coming for the trek. Many of them were solo. The trekkers who are coming as solo can cut short the trek days and finish it off within a short period of time. For the solo trekkers especially it is advisable to hire a guide as they know the weather condition and trail.It would be the moral support for the trekkers too.

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From Bakhim

Finally reached Sachen. All had their packed lunch of sandwiches. It was good. Some of the trekkers who reached early were taking rest for a while. Everyone finished with lunch. All started toward base camp-Yuksom. Some of the HT crew stopped at Sachen itself. After a final handshake and goodbye started moving forward. On the way we crossed the hanging bridge where colourful flags were tied up. It was flying which looked beautiful. I like the view very much. AS we started to move , drizzling started. After some time the rain started heavily. After some walk we were able to see the welcome arch of Kanchenjunga  national park. Again the last hanging bridge on the trail and took a small break over there and had some dry fruits to boost myself. After refreshment started to move.

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Goodbye Kanchendzongha National Park (KNP)

When we were close to Yuksom , I switched on my mobile as we came into the network area after 7 days. We reached Yuksom around 17:00. We were near the village and started distributing chocolates with the kids. All were happy for the successful attempt. We are going to stay in the same lodge where we stayed earlier. After 9 days we were going to refresh ourselves- Bath. 🙂

Everything went well. Only worry was about my phone which I have to service in Chennai. Informed my family and knew about the situation and everything seems good. After refreshment I had some fruits. Everybody was planning to go to Yuksom bazaar. Had boiled veg momos, my favourite. So had it  nicely finally the success part with all trek mates. 🙂

I have a little cramp on my leg so not able to walk properly.Applied medicine and bed time. Done with packing so that tomorrow morning will be free. Finally the trek ends with full satisfaction. During dinner we met Rhik too. All shared their own experience with him. Talked about the pros and cons of the trek.And also talked about the next plan. That’s for the day. Said good night to everyone and went to sleep.

Day 10, 07 Oct 2019: Yuksom to Siliguri/Bagdogra

Good morning Yuksom .!!! It was our final hours in Yuksom. Travel day by cab (160 km). It was the shared cab which cost around 1000 INR per person, which would cover the three places (Siliguri, NJP, Bagdogra). We were all refreshed and ready by 09:00. Rucksack ready and ready to get in to cab.

It was a bright sunny day in the morning. I Planned to visit a monastery near Yuksom bazaar and spent some time over there and relaxed  for a while. We had our breakfast -bread sandwich & my favourite black-tea. Rhik came for the send off. During the time discussed about the next trip plan. Hope next would be definitely a big expedition trek. Kept as a suspense for now. Happily joined the hands and said “chalo phir milenge”. Cab came on time and placed all the things on the cab.All said final bye bye to Yuksom and left to Bagdogra.

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Monastery at Yuksom bazar

We started our journey around 09:30. The travel was around 07 hours. There was a plan to have lunch in the small town Jorethang. We reached the town around 12:00 noon and had Thukpa and spent some time over there. There was a huge crowd in the town due to the festival. It was the last day of Durga Pooja, which is the famous festival of West Bengal. We left the town around 14:50. We are very close to the Bagdogra city.On the way to the city , there is  a bridge-coronation bridge with a diversion which leads to Burma. While heading towards Bagdogra , there was heavy rainfall around 17:00-16:00. Due to which there was a huge traffic jam. The cab stopped at the private bus stand in Siliguri. We all get down and few trekkers who are going to travel from Siliguri,  few trekkers going to travel from NJP and myself and Umang going to travel from Bagdogra. So we are going to stay in a hotel close to Bagdogra airport. As it was rainy we are not able to move immediately. Everyone stands by for sometime till rain is under control and we finally say goodbye to everyone. Myself and Umang  hire the auto to reach the hotel around 18:30-19:00.

At the reception, we settled the advance amount and checked-in. As per plan we refreshed and left the hotel at 19:30 for a walk. A big Mela was going on due to Durga Puja and people were really enjoying it. Due to rain, there were water logging at all the places. After worshipping goddess Durga  we had dinner with nan, paneer gravy and lassi. Had a walk for a while and came back to the hotel.

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Durga Puja: By far the popular festival in this part of India
a-fare-mela-going-on-beside-the-puja-pandal
A fare only increases the fun

Myself going to Chennai and Umang to Mumbai. From the hotel, the Bagdogra  airport was around 04 KM. It will take 15 min from the hotel to the airport. I had planned to leave the hotel around 06:30. Umang had the plan to leave a bit late as he had a flight around 11:00 and mine was around 08:30. Its time to sleep.

Day 11, 08 Oct 2019: Back to Chennai

I woke up around 04:00 and refreshed. I got ready around 05:30 and a final goodbye to Umang. Around 06:30, I left the hotel. Took the auto and reached the airport around 06:50. Hardly 15 min of travel. He charged 100 INR. Checked-in and got the boarding pass.

Again saw the veg momos , you know my love for these now. Haha, without pondering I grabbed the very economic breakfast 😀 with 08 pieces for 80 INR and relished. The flight was on time and boarded the flight around 09:00  and landed around 11:30. From Chennai airport i took the cab to reach my home in Chennai. As i have to go to the office in the second half 🙂 and regular work begins till next travel… 🙂

I enjoyed the trail throughout and overall it was a very satisfying journey indeed.

All photos are shared by the author

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The prelude

The word “trekking” I heard for the first time in the year 2011 and motivated from my elder brother. I got the initiation from him and also usually trekked with them during my Mumbai days.

My first trekking experience was to Sahyadri – the Western Ghats in Maharashtra. I never estimated that I will continue my trekking this far! Till now I had 6 trekking experience, out of 5 was arranged by HIMALAYA TREKKERS.  I have been to Hampta Pass, Valley Of Flowers, Kedarkantha, Dayara Bugyal, Roopkund, and Bali Pass with HT and had great experiences as always.

My 7th trek which I intended with the same group, but unfortunately my leave planning and HT schedule didn’t work together.I was in the doubt that whether I should go for this trek or not. Later I interacted with the HT and discussed the possibilities. They gave me adequate understanding of the trail and encouraged to trek solo.

Meantime some personal issues developed and I thought to leave the plan for the time being. But everything  settled and set for my next Himalayan excursion finally. One major challenge was to reach the base camp since I was travelling solo.

Here is the chronicle of my journey and my first attempt to document it. Being an experienced and solo trekker I had the chance of a flexible itinerary. Also travelling independently gave me a great dealt of freedom for tweaking things here and there. I would strongly encourage to follow the standard HT itinerary of Sandakphu and Phalut trek, if you plan yourself.

Day 1, 19 Jan 2019: Chennai – Kolkata – Overnight train to NJP

My journey began with a 12 Kg backpack from home in Chennai. I walked out from my home at 4:45 AM in search of a bus. Unfortunately I didn’t get one, and got nervous how to reach now. Luckily I got a van , which dropped me 10 km ahead towards airport. Then got the share auto up to Tambaram and finally got the train from the Tambaram to Tirusulam(Chennai airport). It was totally the economic travel till experienced. I reached  the airport at 6 AM itself. My flight time was 07:55 AM. After my security check-in I had my breakfast- Idli prepared by my wife. 🙂 ( a cool start of the journey).

I landed in Kolkata at 10:15 AM. A long gap for the train travel around 18:50 in the evening. So I spent a 1 hour time in the airport itself. After that I came out of the airport and got the Howrah bus up to the Howrah railway station. On that day a huge rally was conducted by ruling party, and a massive crowd was on the way to railways station. It took around 3 hours to reach me to the railway station. But thank god due to the evening train , it didn’t affect my travel.

After reaching the Howrah bus stand, I was searching for the railway station. I have seen one vendor who was selling guava. I thought to ask him (Bhaiya Howrah railway station kidhar hai.?). He showed me the way as (Sahab subway me utar kar cross karo, aap pahonch jaoge). So happily I bought 1/2 kg guava for ₹ 40 and started walking.

I was amazed to see when I reached the point around 15:00. It was a huge railway station consisting of 23 platform and also a huge crowd where I was seen like an ant moving in the crowd of thousands of ants. It seemed I moved automatically with the crowd on the way.

Since there was a 3.5 hours gap, instead of roaming here and there in the railway station  I thought to stay in the waiting hall. I took the 1st class waiting hall , non A.C with balcony so that I can breath the fresh air and have the beautiful scene outside. From this balcony only , I saw the amazing view of the Howrah bridge , which I only saw in the films. It was one of my dream which was fulfilled on that day. The Time passed by staring at  the Howrah bridge and taking the pics.

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Howrah bridge: Early in the morning

Around 18:00 , I started searching for the display whether at which platform my train will arrive, but due to the power shortage , the display board was not working properly. Later I went to the help desk and enquired about it. They said that announcement will be done. At last I got to know that my train got delayed for almost 45 mins. Then only I got the big relief. So I  thought of packing food for dinner. So I packed pulao and gravy + water bottle from food plaza inside railway station.

Finally around 20:00 I got in to the train and settled. Later I had my dinner and had a sound sleep. But I was bit tensed as I was unknown  after which stop New Jalpaiguri Junction (NJP) will come. So I was constantly visiting the live status and getting the updates from the attendant.

Day 2, 20th JAN 2019: NJP – Darjeeling – Maneybhanjung

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Arrived NJP

Delayed by an hour and half I finally reached NJP at 6:15 AM. It was the pretty start of the day as the climate was  chilly. I got bit shivering as I wore only one layer of clothing. After sometime I did warm up and continued to walk. Later I enquired about the taxi stand from where I can get it to reach the queen of the hills, Darjeeling.

Around 07:30 AM I got the shared taxi (₹ 250 per seat) from NJP to Darjeeling. I heard the voice “Nepal”, then only I came to know that we can travel Nepal from NJP. Around 08:30 AM we all get down  for the morning breakfast (Bread omelette and a hot chai). Re energised and continued toward Darjeeling. Around 60-70% of the road was covered with the ghat. At last reached Darjeeling around 10:30 AM.

My next destination was Maneybhanjang. As there was enough time, I thought to spend my time to explore Darjeeling. I had a good walk of around 1.5 km from taxi stand to reach Darjeeling station which is the UNESCO world heritage area situated at the altitude of 6812 feet. Spent my time in the railway station watching the famous steam engine and read the history of the railway station. It was established in the year 1881 and was maintained very neatly.

darjeeling-railways-station
Darjeeling railways station established back in 1881

The climate was pretty normal and sunny. So managed with the single layer of clothing. Again started a walk towards the super market taxi stand from where I can get the taxi (₹ 60 for a seat) up to Maneybhanjang. I have to get down at the Dhendup homestay and Dhendup is my point of contact who will arrange a guide for the trek.

Maneybhanjang is the traditional base camp for Sandakphu trek. This is the hub from where trekkers can hire a guide, buy any last minute item for the trek. I reached Maneybhanjang and the cab dropped me just at the entrance of the Dhendup home stay. I knocked the door around 13:30, someone stepped out. I introduced myself as Vijay coming from Chennai. They welcomed me with a smile and provided a room in the first floor. I get into the room and bit relaxed for a while as I was packed fully for more than 24 hours with my backpack and shoes.

I was feeling hungry so I was provided with the noodles and chai. I enquired about Dhendup , she said that he will be back  by late evening as he went out for a work. The Climate was very chill so I have to wear the another layer of clothing. Relaxed for a while and went out for a short walk. Walked around 1 KM , I saw a board of “Welcome to Nepal”. I was feeling very happy to touch Nepal,so with that curiousness I entered the Nepal and walked 1 KM and saw many small shops and kids playing around. Enjoyed the scene of different country and came back. On the way back to homestay I just have a small overlook for the next day trek. I saw one check post ,where I have to pay Rs 100, Singalila National park, as an entrance fees.

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Maneybhanjung: Bordering with Nepal

Back to homestay and had a nice dinner ( Rice + Chicken + Dal) with Dhendup. After the dinner had the discussion regarding the trek with him and his younger brother. Already I was aware of following plan A. They discussed about the plan B as well and if possible I will try to execute.

Plan-A
Maneybhanjang-Tumling, Tumling-Kalapokhri , Kalapokhari-Sandakphu, Sandakphu-Srikhola, Srikhola-Siliguri.

Plan-B
Maneybhanjang – Jaubari,Jaubari-Sandakphu, Sandakphu-Phalut, Phalut-Srikhola ,Srikhola-Siliguri.

The amount for the guide for both the plan was almost same. Around 25 to 30 KM extra as compared to plan A, but even though I decided to choose for the plan B with the more enthusiasm for the more coverage. The day ended with the great discussion and homely food.

Day 3, 21 JAN 2019: Maneybhanjung – Chitrey – Meghma – Tonglu – Tumling – Jaubari

The day actual trek started towards Sandakphu. I woke up around 05:30 AM in the morning. The climate was pretty chilly. After refreshing I wore three layers of clothing. Took breakfast and finished with plain omelette and chai. Dhendup introduced Pasang Sherpa who is going to guide me for the next 4 days. After a brief introduction, we started our journey. His ancestors belonged to Nepal and settled in India.

The walk starts following the motor road to Sandakphu amidst  dense pine trees. The next point was Chitrey which was 3 KM ahead. On the way to Chitrey, we had the visit of Chitrey Buddha monastery where I got the feeling of positive energy.

prayer-wheels-at-chitrey-monastery
At Chitrey monastery

After walking around half KM we reached Chitrey. Had a short tea break. In the meantime I took the panoramic view of the beautiful landscape. Again started with a fresh walk. The next village was Meghma which was around 07 KM from Chitrey. The way was tick tak, after the walk of  04 KM, there was the Sherpa’s stall where hot drinks , cold drinks and snacks was available. I had a glass of hot water and started walking.

We reached Meghma around 12:45 PM Refreshed ourselves and had lunch(Rice + dal + Subji +Papad+ omelette) cost around ₹ 150/-. We had lunch at the hut which was exactly opposite to the Meghma monastery. After making our stomach happy, our legs got  energy. Around a walk of 2 KM , Tonglu place was arrived which was full of mist and fog. Again zigzag road started and walked along to reach Tumling. It was around 14:00.

tumling
Looking back to Tumling

This was the place where most of the trekkers prefer to stay at the hut, but I chose to cover the plan-B which covers around 25-30 KM more than PLAN-A. So thought to cover the another point and stay over there. So with the boost to cover the more place, we started our walk toward Jaubari.

On the way, the big banner welcomes me which was Singalila National Park. We reached Jaubari around 15:45. We are in the search for the huts. Usually this place would be loaded with the trekkers at the season time, but as it was the winter season , it was not as much expected. After the long search , I got the double bedroom for which I have to pay the two cots. Each ₹ 300/-, and paid ₹ 600/- for the room. My trek guide stayed couple of houses beside. Got refreshed and had a talk about the next day plan.

entrance-of-singalila-national-park
Singalila National Park check post

It was around 17:00, so my guide suggested me to have a walk and see the sunset which would be fantastic view from this point. So enjoyed the sunset took the pic and back to home stay. While returning back it was pitch dark, as there was no light surrounding by, everything runs by solar electricity only. So quickly I got charged my mobile and had dinner nicely ended up with 2 boiled eggs. Had the post dinner walk and entered in to the blanket.

Day 4,22 JAN 2019: Jaubari – Kaiyakata – Kalapokhari – Sandakphu

The day 4 starts with the chill breeze. I didn’t have the sound sleep due to cold, got up from the bed by 05:30 AM and went to the sunrise spot. I was surprised to see my trek guide who was already present at the spot. The sun showed her smiling face getting out from the mountain around 06:40 AM. Able to see the Kanchenjunga mountain range which was shining like a gold. Took the glimpse and spent 2 hours of time around and returned back to the hut and got refreshed.

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From sunrise point
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Kanchenjunga and Sleeping Buddha from Jaubari, Nepal

Signing off from the Indira lodge, which was 16 KM behind Sandakphu. Started our excursion around 08:30 AM, Skipped our breakfast. My next village was Gairibas. The way was bit frozen towards Kaiyakatta. Reached Kaiyakatta around 10:30 AM. Boosted my energy with a bowl of maggi and boiled egg. The next destination was Kalapokhari. This time the road was tow slippery as it was full of frozen, so managed by slow walking with the help of my guide. Finally reached Kalpokhari around 12:40 PM. The name itself gives the meaning which is black pond, able to view the same and enjoyed the nature for a while. In Kalpokhari, I paid RS 50/- as a tourist entrance fee for Sandakphu municipality corporation.

kaiyakata-to-kalapokhri-on-sandakphu-road
Kaiyakata to Kalapokhari: Almost flat road
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Kalapokhari

After Kalpokhari on the way to Sandakphu two Pomeranian dogs – Lucy and Poppy welcomed me. These dogs were too cute. We reached Bikhay Bhanjyang having an altitude of 3280 meter, had a bowl of rice + egg bhurji + papad. The next walk was very steep and it was foggy and misty with zero visibility. Around 16:15 , we reached Sandakphu  which took around 03 hours from Kalpokhari due to its steepness.

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Lucy & Popey
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Climb from Bikhey Bhanjang to Sandakphu

We started our search for an accommodation. There were private and government huts, but I was searching for the government hut. I got one room but consisting of 4 beds. As I was alone , they asked me to pay for the all the beds. I paid RS 200/- per bed. So totally 800 bugs . I know it’s extra but they are not stepping down and they are very strict on that. I don’t have any options and outside getting too chill and windy too and i need a place to get warm as soon as possible. I asked my trek guide also to stay with me but usually his stay is at different place. Finally got settled and came for the sunset view, but due to cloudy , it was not clear. I asked noodles + egg bhurji for the dinner  as was not interested to have rice on that day. It was too chill that i got freeze. My guide brought  the dinner for me, i was so surprised with the service. Signing off the day by saying good nite to my guide. Aaj Bahut thak gaye bhaiya, jyada chal liya na. Quickly we went under the blankets.

sandakphu
Sandakphu

Day 5, 23 JAN 2019: Sandakphu – Sabargram – Phalut

My eyes opened at 05:00 AM. Had a sound sleep last night. We were more enthusiastic to see the sunrise this morning, but again the sun didn’t shine bright behind the clouds. So back to the lodge, ate breakfast and packed my rucksack, and left around 07:50 AM. Today I have to cover 21 KM to reach Phalut. It was totally a different challenge. The climate was pleasant when we started our journey but it was totally opposite when we finished off.

After the walk around 02 KM a small hut came , where we had our breakfast. again started our journey ,on the way plenty of yaks roaming around, after passing the landscape , there was mild snowfall.

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On the way to Phalut

I was too glad to experience the fresh snowfall. I was enjoying the moment. It was around 10 KM behind Phalut where fresh snowfall started. I took out my jacket covered the backpack. Started our walk , I was feeling like walking on the white blanket. Everywhere the snow was covered. after walking around 03 KM, the weather became too harsh and windy too. As there was no village and no hut on the way to Phalut, it became difficult to walk. As small hut was seen after walking a bit where we stopped for a while and waiting for the snowfall to stop, but no change in the climate. It was around 03 KM to reach Phalut. Again with the enthusiasm to reach the Phalut base, started our journey in the snow. I was fully covered with snow when I reached Phalut base at 15:15 and was totally freezing.

snowing-on-the-way-from-sandakphu-to-phalut
Snow started picking up
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Phalut Trekkers Hut

I entered into the hut with a surprise that no trekkers was there in the hut as it was off season. I got the bed for RS 220/- as per the government rate. I was shivering  due to the snowfall which i experienced. so far a warm up i entered into the kitchen and had a glass of hot water. After some time more trekkers came, but too tired that i was not able to interact with them. Around 19:30 my trek guide brought the dinner for me. Simple Khichdi/rice + dal + sabji (₹ 220/-) , omelette ₹ 40/-, Black tea (₹ 20/-). Had it comfortably and when i opened the window the wind was blowing too harshly. My trek guide also stayed with me so we had a short talk regarding the next day. We was very eager to see the mountains if the climate support us. So awaiting for the next day, we slept.

Day 6, 24 JAN 2019: Phalut – Samanden – Rammam – Srikhola – Sepi

The day started with the pretty clear blue sky with beautiful sunrise. so got up and refreshed myself and walked  around 500 feet up hill to get the glimpse of the high mountain peaks. I was too lucky that i have viewed the closest view of the mount Everest and Kanchenjunga which I only studied in the geography. Took the snaps with my guide and came back to the hut.

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At Phalut top
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Everest range in the middle

I skipped breakfast and just had black tea for morning refreshment. Started descent towards Gorkhey  around 09:00 AM from Phalut. It’s was all downhill till Samanden and trail was amazing both side full of bamboo trees. This beautiful village is surrounded by dense pine forest in all direction. The trek from here  to Rammam is through a forest with gradual ascents. At Rammam had our lunch (Yai-yai noodles + boiled eggs) around 14:00 PM. The next point was Srikhola where I crossed the wooden suspension bridge.

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Samanden village
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Today’s lunch!
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Srikhola bridge

After a walk of 40 minutes the final destination Sepi arrived which was around 30 KM from Phalut. Around 17:00 we reached the Pritam home stay at Sepi. Here we found many trekkers and the celebration of the happy ending. After 4 days , I had a nice bath and refreshed myself. Around 19:30 had dinner with rice + chicken. I was fully satisfied with the trekking and also with the service of my trek guide. After 5 days , I got a signal in my mobile. With a great happiness I contacted my family. Had a talk about the pros and cons of the trek with my guide and finally crashed on the bed.

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Sepi homestay

Day 7,25 JAN 2019: Sepi – Maneybhanjung – Siliguri – NJP

With the great excitement and satisfaction, we left from Sepi in the shared cab (₹ 350/- per seat) up to Darjeeling. Around 09:00 AM , I had veg-Momos at Dhotrey on the way as breakfast.

Our next village was Maneybhanjang where we started our trek. My trek guide got down at  Manebhanjang and said phir milenge(waved my hand). I reached Darjeeling around 12:00 PM, by the time little shower of rain was there due to which heavy traffic was there. Got another shared cab(₹ 350/-) towards Siliguri. Reached the destination  around 15:15 which was 5 KM behind NJP. I took the shared auto(₹ 20/-) to reach NJP railway station.

The scheduled departure of my train was 19:35, there was enough time for the train to arrive. Refreshed myself with the hot chai(Skipped lunch) and spent my time by viewing the decoration of the train by the tricolor as it was republic day(Next day).

I got in to the train which was up to Howrah. Feeling too tired and slept on my upper berth without dinner. Had a nice sleep and reached Howrah around 05:30 AM.

Day 8, 26 JAN 2019: Kolkata

It was the Republic day. My flight  from Kolkata to Chennai was next day around 13:30. So the day was for spending time at Kolkata. I searched a room on the way to the airport and got Diya guest house at Baguiati (₹ 600 per day), a budget one. I refreshed myself, had breakfast, and visited Victoria memorial. Heavy rush was there due to Republic day, though spent my time about 3-4 hours in the Victoria memorial and the gardens.

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Victoria memorial

Thought to  meet Himalayan trekkers(Sapta) who is the resident of Kolkata. We met at city centre Esplanade and had our dinner. We took Mutton stew and Chicken Biryani Aliah hotel-Mughiai restaurant, where we had our dinner with mutton gravy and chicken biryani. It was really awesome. Had a brief talk about the trek experience and left from the place.(sapta bhai-Jaldi vapas milenge).Get into the bus up to the Baguiati , he get down in between and I travelled up to Baguiati, reached around 22:30 and slept.

The next day(27 JAN 2019) woke up around 07:00 AM. Refreshed myself and left from there around 08:30 AM by bus. Reached airport around 10:00 AM. Flight up to Chennai was around 13:00. The trip which was full of excitement and the refreshments ends.. It was a fully satisfying journey and to my surprise an economic travel too! 🙂

P.S. All photos are shared by author.

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